Home-made short shift handle:

The combination of the relatively long throws and my elbow hitting the seat bolsters in the 1->2 shift prompted me to consider some short shift options. The rubber isolator at the bottom of the handle creates the 'rubbery' feel most complain about in the factory shifter.

 I couldn't see spending the money on an entirely new shifter.  A shortened handle would help, but I wanted to move the 'H-pattern' forward so that my elbow wouldn't hit the seat, but not so far forward that 1st/3rd/5th become a problem.  The new handle would also eliminate the rubber isolator at the base, taking some of the vagueness out of the shifting action.

So I bought a length of 5/8 rod, welded a flange on it, and with a bit of trail fitting, came up with the shift handle pictured above.  I cut the same threads on it, so I can reuse the factory knob.  The new handle also allows reusing the factory mounting bolts.  The factory shift boot slips over it without problem.

The old handle, straight up in 1st gear.

The new handle, moved and angled forward in 1st.

Old vs. new.  Waaay back into 2nd, compared to the new handle.

Some close-ups of the newly installed shifter handle.  Eventually, I'll spray it black.

Console back in place, shifter in 1st.  Below, in 2nd gear.

Conclusions?

The shifting action is nice and crisp.  The throws really are shorter.  It was surprising to find out what noises and feedback the factory 'isolator' handle was filtering out.  Vibration at the handle is not a problem.

I found that the 1st/3rd/5th gear selections (the overall 'H-pattern') could be moved rearward a bit, so I elongated the bottom hole slightly and this gives me a bit of adjustment. 

Making your own?  I like this design as it doesn't require machining or heating/bending with a torch.   Costs, other than access to a welder and a drill:  about $3 in materials, $9 for the M16x1.5 die, and $14 for the die handle.  

• Make the small 3/16" plate with the holes for the factory bolts.
• tack weld the 5/8" shaft on to the plate, leaving room for the bolt heads. Angle the rod slightly forward compared to the factory handle.
• using the factory shifter (with knob removed) as a reference, cut the shaft so that the top of the new handle will be 2" below the factory handle.  The straighter the cut on the end of the shaft, the easier it will be to start the threads. Don't go more than 2" shorter, or you'll be opening the ashtray with your jacket cuff on every shift into 3rd.
• cut the threads using an M16x1.5 die, 3/4" down the shaft.
• With the shifter in 1st, test fit the handle + knob.   Watch you don't move it too far forward.
• If you are happy with the position (careful - the tack welds may break easy), remove the knob and complete the welding.  I have a 220V MIG, but a small arc or gas welder would do the job.  I don't think I would trust brazing it.

Last edited Monday, August 01, 2005

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